Dry is good for martinis and socks. It’s also good for Visvim.
For his fall men’s and women’s collection, Hiroki Nakamura used a special technique to remove all the oils from cotton to create fabrics with a dry feel. He then used that fabric in his denim collection and also mixed it with linen and wool in other pieces, including workwear-inspired men’s and women’s jackets. That resulted in pieces that looked and felt vintage.
Because of the natural oils in cotton, Nakamura explained, “you can get the look but not the feel” of a well-worn item. “I’ve been collecting vintage denim since I was 14 and I personally like the feel.” So he successfully replicated that with the dry fabric technique.
This in indicative of what has set Visvim apart since Nakamura founded the brand in 2001. He is adept at using unconventional techniques to create the special fabrics that set his brand apart. That was evident in the fall collection in the Katazuri hand-brushing technique he applied to the dry fabric for a colorful men’s kimono-style striped coat and the uneven dyeing technique he introduced this season in T-shirts, sweatshirts and cardigan sweaters that resulted in an almost tie-dyed appearance.
A bamboo iodine technique for striped men’s overshirts was a standout, as was a long velvet dress in the women’s collection whose natural dyeing technique resulted in a crinkled effect.
While the Japanese references in his collection remain fairly consistent every season, there were a few new pieces this time: coats were slightly longer and more oversized and some of the sleeves on the men’s jackets were tacked.
In the accessories realm, Nakamura turned to the same leather producers that are used by the NFL and NBA to create a line of sneakers, bags and small leather goods featuring the leagues’ signature pebbled surface.
While there are never any surprises at Visvim, it’s the brand’s consistency that has helped it survive all these years.